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Orchids: Lights
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Phalaenopsis: These orchids are one of the most adaptable to indoor light conditions, thriving under low light levels (1500 to 1700 foot candles). They perform best in a bright window with little or no direct sun, such as an east window. Artificial light can be used as a sole source of light for phalaenopsis orchids or to supplement natural light. Four 4-foot long fluorescent tubes placed in one fixture that is 6 to 12 inches over the leaves should be satisfactory. Two shop light fixtures with cool-white bulbs are fine. Operate the bulbs for 12 to 16 hours per day, following a natural day length.
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The leaves of some orchids are considered ornamental. The leaves of the Macodes sanderiana, a semiterrestrial or lithophyte, show a sparkling silver and gold veining on a light green background. The cordate leaves of Psychopsiella limminghei are light brownish green with maroon-puce markings, created by flower pigments. The attractive mottle of the leaves of Lady's Slippers from temperate zones (Paphiopedilum) is caused by uneven distribution of chlorophyll. Also Phalaenopsis schilleriana is a lovely pastel pink orchid with leaves spotted dark green and light green. The Jewel Orchid (Ludisia discolor) is grown more for its colorful leaves than its fairly inconspicuous white flowers.
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The medium temperature class is represented by many Cattleyas, Epidendrums, Oncidiums, and Laelias, and most other commercially available orchids. The ideal minimum temperature is 60 degrees F nights and high 70s during the days. An occasional deviation will have no harmful effect. This group will do very well with the air, temperature, and light facilities found in the average home.
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Light: Most orchids require partial shade for best flowering and growth. A southern exposure is usually the best exposure for providing bright, filtered light. Light levels that are too low are one of the main reasons orchids can fail to flower and are evident by leaves that are a very dark green.
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