LYCOS RETRIEVER 
Big Sur
built 656 days ago
Back in Big Sur, the chemistry is all wrong. Dave Wain seems to be in a better frame of mind than Duluoz, and even he begins to suggest that Duluoz is drinking too much. Nobody knows what to do with little Elliot, and Billie is whining about Duluoz's increasing reluctance to marry her. Bugged out, drunk and unable to find any inner peace, Duluoz starts to crack up and think that everybody is plotting to destroy him. Maybe Cody set him up with Billie so she could marry him, kill him and steal his money for Cody. Dave tries to cheer everybody up by ceremonially cooking up a big fish, but then Dave and Ramona fall asleep in the best spot and Duluoz decides they're in on the plot too.
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Big Sur Bakery & Restaurant The candied ginger scones are a must-sample in the bakery. At the adjoining restaurant, wood-fired pizzas are a specialty. 667-0520, www.bigsurbakery.com. Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn Go for the eggs Benedict at breakfast and the roast rack of lamb at dinner. 667-2377, www.deetjens.com. Nepenthe The food is standard but the views are spectacular.
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Big Sur has two types of trails. All but one of the trails featured here are in the relatively easy-to-hike Big Sur state parks. There's ... an extensive network of wilderness hiking routes that are often poorly maintained and a lot more challenging.
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Big Sur ... has a tender image of Dean Moriarty (called Cody in this story) in case you wondered about him some years on from On the Road. Cody seems relatively softened and clarified following two years in San Quentin prison (for marijuana possession) and a return to wife and children:
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Accommodations in Big Sur range from rustic to regal, with even the most opulent resorts designed to blend with the natural surroundings. Passionate readers will find literary pleasures at the Henry Miller Memorial Library, featuring first editions and fine art from the provocative writer. And fine food for thought awaits at the popular Nepenthe Restaurant, the retreat Orson Welles reportedly purchased for new bride Rita Hayworth in 1944.
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Carmel, the start of Big Sur if you’re heading southward, is about a two hour drive by expressway south of San Francisco airport. This is an upscale town filled with more than 80 art galleries. If California ever slides into the ocean during a big quake much of the world’s supply of bad art will find itself at the bottom of the Pacific ocean when Carmel slides beneath the waves.
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